“Some grapes have a rare ability to truly reveal the character of a vineyard. Chenin Blanc is one of those grapes.”

Over the past decade, Chenin Blanc has quietly become one of the most fascinating varieties we grow throughout our estate vineyards. Our interest in Chenin began with a simple idea: certain grapes possess an uncommon ability to transmit the character of a place. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay have long demonstrated this capacity in our vineyards, but Chenin Blanc shares a similar sensitivity. With its naturally high acidity, textural structure, and restrained aromatic profile, it allows subtle differences in soil, exposure, and climate to emerge with remarkable clarity.

When establishing Chenin Blanc in our vineyards, we chose clone 982, a selection that consistently shows exceptional balance between structure and precision. Unlike some Chenin selections that emphasize aromatic intensity or higher yields, clone 982 produces small clusters with naturally high acidity and firm phenolic structure, giving the wines both tension and longevity. What fascinates us most about this selection is its restraint. Rather than dominating with overt aromatics, it produces wines that feel architectural in shape, while still delivering graceful layers of quince, orchard fruit, chamomile, and saline minerality, all supported by bright, linear acidity.

Over time, Chenin Blanc has become something of a controlled experiment across our estate vineyards: one grape, one selection, expressed through four very different mountain geologies. Each vineyard tells its own story, revealing how dramatically place can shape the character of this remarkable variety.

Mt. Pajaro Vineyard

Our exploration of Chenin Blanc began at Mt. Pajaro, where we planted a small 0.9-acre block at very high density: 3′ × 3.5′ spacing, or 3,556 vines per acre. The block sits on a north-facing slope in the southern Santa Cruz Mountains, facing away from Monterey Bay. Here, fractured sedimentary soils and persistent coastal influence shape wines of striking energy and mineral precision. From its very first vintage, this wine immediately confirmed our hopes for Chenin Blanc in the Santa Cruz Mountains, producing a vivid, beautifully structured, and remarkably delicious wine

Bearwallow Vineyard

Encouraged by the results at Mt. Pajaro, we expanded our Chenin Blanc plantings in 2018, establishing a half-acre block at the highest and steepest section of Bearwallow Vineyard in Anderson Valley. There the vines grow in shallow soils over fractured shale, quartz, and sandstone, planted at 6′ × 3′ spacing. The resulting wines show a slightly broader texture, with savory mineral notes that reflect the rugged Mendocino geology beneath the vines.

Horseshoe Vineyard

We also planted Chenin Blanc at Horseshoe Vineyard in 2018, high in the Santa Cruz Mountains, after removing a small nursery block we had been using to propagate Carricante for our Centennial Mountain vineyard. Horseshoe is rooted in Monterey Formation shale with intermingled limestone, planted at 6′ × 4′ spacing. Even in its early vintages, the wine from this site has shown remarkable definition—taut, precise, and deeply mineral.

Clarke Ranch

At Clarke Ranch, rootstock was planted in 2016 with Chenin Blanc grafted and established at high density—4′ × 3′ spacing, or 3,630 vines per acre, similar to Mt. Pajaro. This rocky, high-elevation Mendocino site adds another dimension to our exploration of Chenin Blanc, producing wines that combine vibrant tension with a more layered texture as the vineyard continues to mature.

In the Cellar

Our approach to Chenin Blanc in the cellar is deliberately restrained. The wines ferment primarily in neutral oak barrels, allowing gentle oxygen exchange without introducing overt oak character. Occasionally, a portion ferments in stainless steel, preserving aromatic lift and clarity.

The intention is simple: to allow each vineyard to speak with as little interference as possible.

Even in these early years, the wines have shown remarkable promise. The first vintages from Mt. Pajaro and Horseshoe have already gained depth and complexity while retaining the vibrant structure that defines the variety. As these young blocks continue to mature, we expect the differences between sites to sharpen even further. We believe these vineyards have only just begun to reveal what they are capable of.